Measuring 4 mls N to S and 3 mls E to W, Malaysia's dynamic federal capital is the country's cultural and corporate centre, as well as one of SE Asia's powerhouses. Its success and affluence is clearly evident in the rash of modern, high-rise architecture - especially the dramatic Petronas Twin Towers and KL Tower, two of the world's tallest buildings - while glamorous, air-conditioned shopping centres contrast starkly with numerous colonial mansions, palaces, mosques, temples and plenty of suburban shambles. The area around Jalan Bukit Bintang and the S part of Jalan Sultan Ismail have a concentration of hotels, shopping centres and restaurants. Despite having broad, modern, multilane avenues, traffic is often appalling during peak times. The city doesn't make for enjoyable walking, either, as pavements are often dug up and it can take 5 mins to cross a road. Sights are spread out, which makes independent sightseeing an interesting adventure.

A broad spectrum of international tourists and corporate and diplomatic visitors. This is Malaysia's most sophisticated city, with a wealth of entertainments and services to suit most tastes, though not another Bangkok!

A wide range of fine, first-class yet affordable city-centre high-rises, tourist hotels, serviced apartments and budget hostels catering for all pockets. Most of the principal city-centre properties have state-of-the-art convention and business facilities in addition to leisure amenities. Location is an important consideration, as traffic is bad and sights are spread out, so check before booking.

A shopper's paradise, with many goods (excluding cosmetics) far cheaper than the UK. A plethora of fine, air-conditioned shopping centres brimming with high fashion, designer goods, jewellery and an abundance of remarkably cheap electronic products. Many hotels have their own boutiques and arcades. Plenty of cheap "genuine copy" watches and wallets, computer software and computer games. Touristy Central Market for local arts and crafts. Look out for Royal Selangor pewter.

Daytime: various interesting self-guided heritage trails and city tours; all manner of attractions, including the National Museum, King's residence (Istana Negara), Merdeka Square and Petronas Twin Towers for views from the sky bridge; Lake Gardens with bird and butterfly parks; upmarket shopping. Malaysian Formula 1 Grand Prix in March. Nightlife: as lively and diverse as any major city, featuring evening cultural shows, Chinatown's busy night market, plenty of bars, karaoke lounges, a few sophisticated nightclubs and discos. Many of the larger hotels provide their own entertainments.

Everything from familiar international fast food to teeming streets lined with Chinese, Indian, Malay, Thai and Japanese restaurants, coffee shops and roadside stalls. Plenty of contemporary upmarket restaurants in hotels. Bintang Walk is lined with pavement cafes and restaurants, and part of Jalan P Ramlee has numerous bars and restaurants. Prices offer good value.

Not particularly tourist friendly. The efficient (and cool) Light Rail Transit (LRT) and monorail system (KL Monorail) are very modern and cost effective, but lines are private, so tickets cannot be bought from start to finish of a journey if it involves changing lines; only a few stations are near tourist sights and hotels. Plenty of buses, although it's difficult to find information on routes. A train service connects the airport with the city. Travel cards are good value. Cheap air-conditioned taxis. Car hire available (although driving in the city is a lesson in terror!).

Half day: Batu caves (Hindu temple inside limestone caves); Royal Selangor pewter factory. Full day: attractive town of Malacca (old trading port for Dutch, Portuguese and British); Genting Highlands entertainment resort (with large casino and theme park); elephant sanctuary. Two days: Cameron Highlands for tea plantations; Taman Negara (national park) for jungle trekking and river trips.

About two-thirds of the way down Malaysia's mainland peninsula, 20 mls in from the W coast. Approximately 250 mls NW of Singapore. 240 mls S of Penang. 44 mls from Kuala Lumpur international airport; 17 mls from Subang airport (domestic flights only).

Astride 2 rivers, which helped to give the city its name (Kuala Lumpur means muddy waters). To the NE lie the Genting Highlands, covered with jungle and tea plantations.

Telephone Area Code: 3
Website: www.kuala-lumpur.ws

Airport : Subang Kuala Lumpur International
Airport Code: KUL
Flight time from ther U.K.: 12 hrs